Montres Tudor, SA, fully owned by Rolex since its inception in 1946, maintains a distinct identity separate from its parent company. Founded by Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor aimed to create robust, compelling timepieces. The early Tudor models, branded as “Oyster,” adopted Rolex’s waterproof case, and in 1952, the “Oyster Prince” line emerged, laying the foundation for Tudor’s future collections.
The Pelagos Collection
Introduced in 2012, the Tudor Pelagos represents a modern interpretation of classic dive watches, showcasing the brand’s commitment to exceptional craftsmanship. It is notable for being the first watch from the Rolex family crafted from lightweight titanium, a choice that reflects Tudor’s innovative spirit. Instead of modifying existing models like the Submariner, Tudor opted for an entirely new reference.
Case Design
The Pelagos features a matte satin finish with beautifully beveled edges, a rare detail in contemporary tool watches. The Tudor crown is safeguarded by a pointed crown guard, and the matte finish effectively conceals scratches. With a 42mm case size and robust thickness, it remains comfortable for wear, easily fitting under a cuff. Rated for water resistance up to 500 meters, it competes well with divers from brands like Omega and IWC. A helium release valve on the left side pays homage to Rolex’s role in developing this feature for professional diving.
Dial Features
The dial of the Pelagos is characterized by applied square hour markers, a triangle at 12 o’clock, and longer rectangles at 6 and 9. The date window at 3 o’clock lacks a cyclops magnifier, distinguishing it from Rolex designs. The Pelagos also features luminous snowflake hands, a nod to Tudor’s heritage, with a strong blue lume that enhances visibility.
Bezel
The bezel is made from injected matte ceramic, providing a modern touch akin to the Submariner’s bezel, with luminous material integrated for readability. A unique design element is the triangle at 12 o’clock, featuring a cut-out circle resembling a faux pearl, which adds a quirky detail to the watch.
Bracelet Design
The Pelagos bracelet is well-crafted and comfortable, resembling the Rolex Oyster but finished in matte. Its innovative “floating” clasp allows for dynamic adjustment, accommodating wrist changes due to water pressure, enhancing wearability during everyday activities. Additionally, the Pelagos includes two rubber straps—one standard and one extended for dive suits—demonstrating Tudor’s attention to practical details.
Design Language
A standout feature of the Pelagos is its titanium case and bracelet, known for their excellent strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance. The ceramic bezel enhances scratch resistance, while Tudor’s proprietary movement ensures chronometric precision. The Pelagos is certified as a COSC chronometer, featuring a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 70 hours.
Water Resistance and Luminescence
The Pelagos boasts impressive water resistance, rated between 100 to 500 meters, achieved through a screw-down crown and meticulous case engineering. The watch’s luminescent display, with sizeable hour markers and hands treated with Tudor’s Chromalight material, emits a sustained blue glow, essential for divers exploring underwater depths.
Movement
The Tudor calibre MT5612, introduced in 2015, is an in-house COSC-certified chronometer featuring a bidirectional rotor system, variable inertia balance, and a non-magnetic silicon balance spring. This movement powers the Pelagos, indicating the date along with hours, minutes, and seconds, and includes 26 jewels, operating at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, with a robust power reserve of 70 hours.
Conclusion
The Tudor Pelagos stands out as a superb tool watch, combining advanced engineering and practical features that make it one of the best options in its price bracket.
